The Faces of Identity Theft

May 26th, 2010

About 80 percent of people have errors on their credit reports, and many of these are a result of identity theft. Identity theft can be a devastating event that gets in the way of learning how to build credit. Once a thief acquires your personal information s/he can quickly suck your account dry or steal your identity, resulting in not only a tremendous financial loss but a considerable outlay of time to put your affairs back in order.

Now, more than ever, you have to be careful about leaving any scrap of personal information available to scheming identity thieves. Take safeguards to avoid leaving yourself open to identity theft, and be aware of the many ways identity theft might occur.

Dumpster diving. One of the more common forms of identity theft is when thieves find pieces of personal information is to rummage through a victim’s rubbish. For example, the credit card offers that you discard without a thought might be used by a dumpster diver to set up credit accounts in your name. Bank account statements that have your credit card number or bank account might even be used to purchase items online or over the phone. To prevent this, purchase a shredder and use it on anything with your personal information.

Open-access mailboxes. If you have a mailbox that is not secured or is a community mailbox, beware of identity thieves snatching your mail and setting up bogus accounts in your name. If you’re going to be away on vacation, protect yourself from identity theft by asking the post office to put your mail on hold so no one can grab it.

Pickpockets and purse-snatchers. Make sure you never leave your purse or bag unattended. Having access to your credit card and driver’s license is an identity thief’s dream. For that reason, never, ever carry your Social Security card in your wallet.

Phishers and Phreakers. Be especially wary of phishers and phreakers, the newest form of identity theft. Phreakers are people who search for personal information by eavesdropping on telephone calls. Phishers send cleverly disguised emails that ask you to provide personal account information. Using anti-virus software and a firewall is a good way to cut down on malignant attempts by criminals to access your information. Do not share your password with anybody and change it often to decrease the possibility someone may hack into your computer. Also watch out for spyware, which is often installed on your computer without your consent. It can monitor your computer for personal information, such as credit card numbers.

Keep a close lid on your Social Security number. This is your most sensitive personal information, and when an identity thief gets your Social Security number, s/he can easily steal your identity. Do not give out your number unless you started the call and can confirm the identity of the person/company you are calling.

Always keep track of your credit report. Regularly checking your credit report is the best weapon you have against identity theft. Request copies of your credit report at least four times a year. You can get a free annual credit report once a year. Follow up to see any suspicious information or other irregularities show up. Another important safeguard against identity theft is double-checking the purchases on your credit card and withdrawals from your bank account.

Tags: identity theft, personal finance

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Credit-Scoring Factor #1: Payment History

May 19th, 2010

In my book about how to build credit, 7 Steps to a 720 Credit Score, I remind readers that a clean payment history is only one aspect of a good credit score. That said, it is among the most important aspects, counting for 35 percent of a credit score.

The credit-scoring bureaus use 22 criteria to design the intricate formulas used to determine a credit score. These criteria can be segregated into five factors (“What Are the Credit Score Factors?):

Payment history
Outstanding balances
Age of credit
Type of credit
Credit inquiries

This blog focuses on the first: payment history.

This portion of the credit-scoring formula looks at:

Your payment history on revolving accounts such as credit cards, retail accounts such as gas cards, installment loans such as car loans, finance accounts, mortgages, and other credit accounts. I think it goes without saying that the formula responds better if a credit report has no late payments.

The severity of late payments. A 30-day-late payment will be judged less severely than a 120-day late payment. And an account sent to collections will cause the score to drop even more.

The presence (or lack thereof) of repossessions, collections, charge offs, and public records such as bankruptcies, judgments, and foreclosures. The fact of bankruptcies and other severe defaults will hurt your score the most, especially if they have happened recently.

The recency of late payments. Your payment history if weighed on a scale with the most recent payment activity given more weight than past activity For this reason, recent late payments will affect your score more negatively than aging ones. This is because the scoring models assuming that current behavior is a far better predictor of your future behavior than is past behavior.

In fact, if your prior credit report is spotless but you make on late payment, your score will probably experience a sharp drop. This is because the scoring bureaus will assume you have had a shift in your financial situation. If you make late payments all the time, the scoring bureaus will eventually start making gradual deductions.

This is not to say that one or two late payments will cause your score to plummet so drastically that you are unable to qualify for a loan. One or two blemishes on an otherwise strong credit report might be overlooked. However, if you have a high credit score and make a late payment, you will be docked more points than if you already have a low credit score and make a late payment.

In other words, your payment history is a critical component of your credit score. However, the most important part of this is your recent behavior. The past two years of your payment history are far more revealing than behavior that occurred five or six years ago. And with some exceptions (e.g., bankruptcies, which stay on a credit report for ten years), your payment history from eight years ago is a moot point as most items fall off a credit report in seven years.

In my free teleseminar, I talk about how banks use your payment history to legally rob you of your hard-earned money. Be sure to check it out!

Tags: credit score, payment history

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How to Qualify for a Loan

May 12th, 2010

In today’s rough environment, knowing how to build credit isn’t enough if you want to also know how to qualify for a loan.

Ideally, a loan sits on a stool with four legs: income, down payment, savings, and credit score. If necessary, a stool can stand with just three legs. It cannot however, stand on just two, and it is important for would-be borrowers to understand this when learning how to qualify for a loan.

You are going to need at least three out of four “stool legs” to get a worthwhile loan.

Before applying for a loan, understand that the lender is in the business of earning a return on its investment. The lender could invest in the stock market, bonds, annuities, mutual funds, or any number of other things. The lender is only interested in giving you a loan to you if the lender can earn a worthwhile return in the form of the interest payments you make as the loan is paid.

To make this determination, the lender considers the four stool legs we discussed.

How to Qualify for a Loan—Stool Leg Number #1: INCOME

The lender considers your income. The higher your income as compared to your existing debts (your “debt-to-income ratio”), the more likely you are to make your monthly payments.

How to Qualify for a Loan—Stool Leg Number #2: DOWN PAYMENT

Next, the lender considers the down payment you are going to make on a loan attached to property (such as a car or home loan). The bigger the down payment, the more protection a creditor has. First, the property has more equity invested in it, meaning it is more likely to have enough equity to be sold at a profit to pay off the loan. As well, the borrower has more invested in the property and is therefore more likely to prioritize loan payments.

How to Qualify for a Loan—Stool Leg Number #3: SAVINGS

The lender considers your savings. Also called “reserves,” your savings are important because they tell the lender your likelihood of weathering any rough spots in your life, getting back on your feet, and making those loan payments.

How to Qualify for a Loan—Stool Leg Number #4: CREDIT SCORE

Finally, the lender considers your credit score. The credit score gives the lender a glimpse into your character and how important it is to you to keep your word and repay your debts. It also further assists the creditor in analyzing your ability to repay by revealing whether you are already carrying large amounts of debt.

When considering how to qualify for a loan in today’s market, a person really needs four out of four stool legs, though some exceptions might apply. If the would-be borrower is strong on any three out of the four, a lender might make an exception, even if his fourth leg is weak. A strong income may make up for a lack of reserves. Or a high credit score can make up for a small down payment. In normal lending environments, a borrower with a strong income, lots of savings and a big down payment will probably be allowed to slide on a mediocre credit score, but s/he would pay high interest rates.

For major purchases, like cars and houses, it’s worth thinking about these four criteria at least six months to a year in advance of applying for a loan.

Keep your income as high as possible when learning how to qualify for a loan. You can get a second job or work to bring home additional commission. This will help your income, savings, and down payment. Dedicate as much of your monthly earnings to a savings account and maximize your reserves. Learn how to create a budget. If you have family members willing to help you with the down payment, get the money from them in advance so that when the lender looks back at several months’ worth of bank statements, the lender will see consistent higher balances. (Keep in mind that you should discuss the tax consequences for cash gifts with a tax consultant.)

Get a copy of your free annual credit report and review it for any errors. If you find them, contact the credit bureaus and follow their steps to have the information corrected. Make all you payments on time, and try to pay down your balances on existing accounts. Attend our free teleseminar so that you can learn how to improve your credit score quickly.

Although the four legs of our stool are the most important criteria, learning how to qualify for a loan means that you take a look at some smaller factors as well. How long have you been at your current job and address?

People who move around a lot are generally consider bigger risks than borrowers with proven job stability and a permanent address. From a lender’s perspective, a stable lifestyle—two or more years at the same address—equals a safe investment.
In addition, the lender wants to know that you have a history of making plenty of money to afford the loan. Ideally, your job should also be stable, meaning you have been employed for at least two years at the same company.

In today’s market, knowing how to qualify for a loan can be tough. Lenders have more stringent guidelines than ever before. Remember to start early and learn everything you can about building picture-perfect credit!

Tags: loans, personal finance

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Key Considerations About Divorce and Credit

May 6th, 2010

While divorce often causes a person to take inventory, many people forget the implications of divorce and credit. Many married couples or life partners jointly apply for credit cards, auto loans, and mortgages. Part of learning how to build credit means that you learn about how divorce can complicate your credit situation.

If you and your partner kept all credit separate during your marriage, you will not be impacted by your ex-spouse’s credit behavior at any time before, during, and after your marriage. However, if your spouse is an authorized user or joint holder of a credit card, an angry former spouse can start lots of problems with respect to divorce and credit. With joint accounts, both you and your ex-spouse are jointly responsible for debt and therefore are affected by each other’s financial decisions. For example, your ex-spouse’s late payments and collection notices show up on your credit report after the divorce if you have not split the accounts.

The best move is to cancel these cards rather than risk the negative effects of someone else’s mismanagement. Some credit card companies may require a special type of notice to cancel jointly held cards, such as a written notice. Doing this as soon as possible is in your best interest in terms of divorce and credit. After a divorce, your ex-spouse may need to charge many things to make up for reduced income. Even if your ex is not being malicious, this could harm your credit score by causing your utilization rate (the balance as a percentage of the credit card limit) on jointly held credit cards to increase.

If you and your ex-spouse own a home together, both are charged with paying off the debt unless you work out another arrangement. Aside from selling the house, your best option may be to pursue refinancing. Using a quitclaim deed, you can take your name off the title of the property, but this is not enough when it comes to divorce and credit. Your ex must also refinance, or your credit will suffer if he or she becomes delinquent on payments.

On the other side, if you retain ownership of the home and do not put the property in your name, you could be affected if your ex-spouse is sued. The house might be seized to pay off your spouse’s debts.

If you are separated, you may want to take a few steps to prepare yourself, especially if you think you are heading toward divorce. Pull your credit report and assess your financial situation, noting all existing credit accounts. Keep copies of everything in a safe place. If you have joint accounts, have a discussion with your spouse about who will assume payments for which credit accounts. If you are on peaceful terms with your spouse, have a frank discussion about divorce and credit, and how you can both protect yourselves. Consult an attorney, and create a plan to keep your payments on schedule and your credit protected.

To protect yourself from the pitfalls of divorce and credit, cancel your joint accounts, and make sure you contact all credit bureaus to ensure that your address information is updated.

Tags: divorce and credit, personal finance

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