Category: CREDIT BLOG

How to Get Business Credit

I learned a ton of great information from Tom Kish about how to get business credit during Week Two of the Credit and Debt Summit.
How to Get Business Credit
Tom Kish is the author of Shortcuts to Money, and he’s one of our experts at the Credit and Debt Summit. Basically, Tom teaches people how to get business credit, and then he teaches them how to use it to expand their businesses.
Here are three highlights:
The first secret about how to get business credit is this: Don’t apply in your own name. A lot of entrepreneurs walk into a bank and fill out a business loan application using their own name. Kish says the banks will basically laugh in your face if you do this.
Banks want to do business with LLCs, S-Corps, and C-Corps. Banks know that corporations might buy insurance products through the bank, they might build investment accounts or retirement accounts, or they might process their merchant services through the bank.
And being a sole proprietor—even one with a Fictitious Business Names or “DBA”—just doesn’t cut it, says Kish.
But if you register your business as a corporation or formal partnership, the banks will practically salivate at your door.
The second secret about how to get business credit is this: Keep your personal credit score high. A lot of lenders will look at the owner or principal’s credit score when considering a loan application.
This doesn’t mean that you should apply for business credit under your own name. Once again, you absolutely should not. It does, however, mean that your personal credit score might be considered as part of the overall process.
So if you have a bad credit score, be sure you know how to build credit. Namely, get your outstanding debt as low as you can, pay your bills on time, and scour your credit report for errors. (Be sure to come back later for some hot information from Brian Diez about errors on your credit report!)
And the third secret I’ll share is this: Apply for more than one loan. Let’s say you have a business registered as a corporation and you want a $150,000 line of credit. Instead of applying for one big loan, try breaking it into three or four loans that add up to $150,000.
You will have much more success if you start by looking for a bank that will provide you with $30,000 or $40,000 line of credit. Once you secure this loan, apply for another one. And then another.
Heck if you are just getting started, apply for a $5,000 line of credit. Get your foot in the door and get the ball rolling.
One thing you should know about how to get business credit is that getting the first loan is always the hardest step, especially if you don’t have any assets or much history. Look for a bank that provides “stated income” loans that are unsecured. This means that you won’t have to provide tax returns, collateral, or a business plan.

A Holiday, Charge-Card Reminder …

Just a quick reminder…
Don’t get carried with your credit cards when shopping for holiday presents. Remember that one of the keys to a high credit score is to keep a balance that is no higher than 30 percent of the limit.
This means that if you have a $2,000 limit, your balance should not exceed $600.
Ever. Not even for one day. Even if you pay your bill in full each month.
You see, 30 percent of your credit score is based on your outstanding debt. And in large part, your outstanding debt includes something called the “utilization rate,” which is your balance as a percentage of your limit.
Credit bureaus give higher scores to people with low utilization rates, and they give lower scores to people with high utilization rates.
So keeping the right credit card balance is one of the most important things you can do this holiday season to protect your credit score.
For more ideas, be sure to download my free holiday booklet about saving money during the holidays, preventing the retail store scams, and protecting your credit score.
Philip Tirone

The tale of the envelope, by 720 Credit Score

With Christmas just a couple of weeks away, I wanted to share this tip for protecting your wallet when you hit the malls.
I call it the “envelope system.” It works like this:
1. First, create a holiday spending budget. I know a lot of parents who want to create lasting memories for their children, so they go overboard, buying tons of presents for their kids.
But think back to your own childhood. How many gifts are etched into your memory?
Probably not many. Your children will remember the time they spend with you more than the gifts they will receive.
And if you are racking up your credit card bills, you probably feel stress and anxiety, which will detract from the time you spend with your children.
So create a reasonable budget, determining how much you can afford to spend on each person on your list.
2. Leave the credit cards and debit cards at home.
I’m totally serious about this. If you don’t take credit cards or debit cards, you cannot overspend. It’s that simple.
If you do take credit cards and debit cards, you can. So just leave them at home.
The more radical this idea sounds to you, the more important it is that you implement it.
Taking credit cards with you is just too tempting, even to the most disciplined shopper. The allure of “buy now, pay later” will allow you to make impulse purchases.
If you take only cash, on the other hand, you will limit your spending to the cash in hand. Those impulse purchases will be impossible.
3. Create “wallets.”
This is where my “envelope system” comes into play …
Before jumping in your car and hitting the local mall, pull out some plain white envelopes and write the name of each person you are going to purchase a present for on individual envelopes. (If you have eight people to buy presents for, you should have eight envelopes.)
Within each envelope, place the appropriate amount of cash you have budgeted for this person—no more and no less.
Each of these envelopes represents the wallet you have for each person on your list.
You might want to bring a little extra money for lunch, but be sure to leave your credit and debit cards at home.
When you purchase a present, use the money from the appropriate “wallet.”
This method will create a psychological barrier to impulse shopping. If you are tempted to splurge on a gift, you will be dissuaded when you consider whose wallet you will withdraw money from in order to cover the impulse shopping.
What do you think? Does this help you avoid the “holiday credit card hangover”? Leave a comment below and let me know.
Cheers!
Philip Tirone
P.S. You can use this tip for other events: birthdays, anniversaries, and other events that call you to the mall!

Refinancing mortgage and credit card debt

Scott,
I have a question about rolling credit card debt into a home mortgage.
If I have a current mortgage balance of around $66,150 at 8.25% fixed rate, monthly payments, with 21 years left on a 30 year mortgage, How much do I save if get a 15 year mortgage at 4.85% fixed rate, biweekly payments, with $10,190 of credit card debt added which is currently at 9.99%?
I have been a subscriber for some time now, and our local credit union recommended we do this instead of doing just the home mortgage and then a separate loan for the credit cards. They also told us that by paying biweekly we would knock a few years off the 15 year mortgage.
I read your newsletters all the time and have found it helpful in helping us to get our finances in order before I retire in 8 years. We are almost debt free of credit cards and we look forward to being able to live without being enslaved to the credit companies. If you use this in your newsletter use my first name and last initial.
Thanks Scott you are an asset and inspiration to millions of people in these terrible economic times.
Shawn M.
This is an involved math problem–which I love. 🙂 It’s important that we do an apples-to-apples comparison. That means we have to keep your payments constant. Here we go…
STEP 1: Figure out the numbers AFTER you refinance at 4.85%.
Current Mortgage Balance: $66,150
Credit Card Balance: $10,190
—————————————
Total Principal: $76,340
Refinance APR (Annual Percentage Rate): 4.85%
Loan Period: 15 years
Using the DebtSmart Loan Calculator
Monthly Payment: $597.75
Biweekly Payment Amount: $597.75/2 = $298.88
Using the DebtSmart Loan Calculator
Loan Repayment Time with Biweekly Payment: 13.35 years (347.20 biweekly periods)
Total time paying $647.57 per month is 13.35 years or 160.2 months.
STEP 2: Find the total time to repay original loans based on the amount you’re willing to pay for the refinance in Step 1.
Total willing to pay is $298.88 every two weeks.
Monthly: ($298.88 x 26)/12 = $647.57 (same monthly amount as the refinance in Step 1)
Using the DebtSmart Loan Calculator
The monthly payment that will repay the $66,150 mortgage balance at 8.25% APR, in 21 years: $553.20
From the $647.57 you will use $553.20 for your mortgage and the difference, $94.37, for the $10,190 of credit card debt which is currently at 9.99%.
Using the DebtSmart Loan Calculator
Time to repay $10,190 at 9.99% with $94.37 per month: 276.48 months which is 23 years. Therefore the mortgage will be paid off first.
Using the DebtSmart Loan Calculator
The balance remaining on the credit card after 21 years is: $2,082.19
Since the mortgage is paid off, you can use the entire $647.57 to repay the credit card debt balance.
Using the DebtSmart Loan Calculator…
Time to repay $2,082.19 at 9.99% using $647.57 per month: 3.36 months
Total time paying $647.57 is 21 years, 3.36 months or 255.36 months.
CONCLUSION:
The comparison is based on the fact that an apples-to-apples comparison dictates that you pay the same amount per month to both cases and then figure out which case is best and how much is saved.
When you refinance at 4.85% you pay $647.57 for 160.2 months.
With the 8.25% mortgage and 9.99% credit card rate you would have to pay $647.57 for 255.36 months.
Therefore, the amount saved is the difference in payoff time multiplied by the monthly payment:
$647.57 x (255.36-160.2) = $61,622.76 (TOTAL SAVINGS)
That is the amount you could save, instead of spend, by doing the refinance at 4.85%.
You may be interested in reading more on what I think about biweekly mortgages in my article, Biweekly mortgage may be rip-off.

———–
Thanks Scott so much for crunching the numbers for us! We will definately go the route of refinancing the CC debt into the Mortgage at the lower rate for 15 years fixed. We can think of alot of things we can spend almost $62,000 in savings on! Thats alot of winters spent someplace warmer! Thanks again and continue the great job you do to help others get free of the Debt.

Shawn M.
Author: This article was contributed by DebtSmart.com.
Source:

Preventing the Holiday Department Store Credit Scam

Before the holidays are over, many consumers will charge an extra $600, $800, even $1,000 to their credit cards. Most shoppers don’t plan for this—it just happens. Department stores tempt them with offers of retail store credit cards, two-for-ones, and big discounts …
But by the time January rolls around, they have giant credit-card-debt hangovers that leave them wondering how they can preserve their finances when they have migraine-headache-sized debt looming over them.
Though they are supposed to be joy-filled, the holidays represent a giant danger to your credit score and your pocketbook. Come the New Year, you will have to battle with your credit card bills as well as increasing interest rates. Remember that when your credit card debt increases, your credit score decreases, which translates to growing interest rates.
But this year can be your breakthrough year. Here are a few of my 10 Holiday Shopping Rules.
1. First and foremost, plan in advance.
This means that before you head to the department stores:

  • Make a budget.
  • Prioritize your gift list.
  • Assign a dollar value to each person on your list.

2. Then, play with cash, and leave your credit cards at home using the “envelope system.”

“I’ll just put it on my credit card, and I’ll pay it off when the bill comes.”
How many times have you said this? The problem is that life tends to get in the way by the time the bills come.
Even to the most disciplined shopper, credit cards are a little like Monopoly money, but if you use cash only, you will limit your spending to the cash in hand.
Before heading to the stores, review your budget and create envelopes with the names of each person you are going to purchase a present for (Son, Mom, Dad, etc.). Within each envelope, place the appropriate amount of money you have budgeted for this person— no more and no less. Each of these envelopes represents the wallet you have for each person on your list.
Though you might want to bring a small amount of cash for parking and lunch, leave all credit cards at home, including your debit cards. When you purchase a present, use the money from the appropriate “wallet.”
This method will create a psychological barrier to impulse shopping. If you are tempted to splurge on a gift, you will be dissuaded when you consider whose wallet you will withdraw money from in order to cover the impulse shopping.

3. Buy your most important presents first.

If you have budgeted appropriately, you will not run out of money, but let’s face it: Money does not go as far as it used to.
When shopping, buy the gifts at the top of the priority list first and, if you go over budget, find substitutes for those people on the bottom of your list. (Your sister would probably love a framed picture as much as a $75 sweater.)
If you buy your most important gifts first, you will be less tempted to charge things to your credit card. But if you save your most important gifts for last, you might find yourself turning to credit cards when all your cash has been spent on less-important gifts.
Finally, never get the credit-card discount.
4. Finally, never get the credit-card discount.
That 10 percent discount you get for signing up for a store credit card might seem like a great deal, but think again. It’s a giant scam because it pales in comparison to the damage this will do to your credit score.
Think about it: If you sign up for a retail store account, you are:

  • Inviting an inquiry into your credit score. The retail store will run your credit report, which will hurt your score. Inquiries account for 10 percent of your score.
  • Increasing the number of credit cards you have. Credit-scoring bureaus respond more favorably to people with three to five major credit cards (American Express, Discover, MasterCard and Visa).
  • Incurring interest, unless you pay the account in full. This interest will compound so that the 10 percent savings ends up costing you 20, 30, 50, even 100 percent more than you had intended to spend!

Philip Tirone

Are you a Father with a Daughter? Then, you will appreciate this….

As many of you know, I have four kids, all less than four years apart.  My wife Lily is a true super star.
So I went to my daughter’s preschool to read to read to her class. As all the kids gathered around, instead of my daughter sitting with her classmates, she wanted  to crawl up next to my leg and sit there.
While I was reading, I didn’t even realize what was happening until I saw this picture my wife took:

Isn’t  this the most precious picture you have ever seen?  It melts my heart…  I’m the luckiest man alive.
She didn’t want to watch “Dad” read…. she wanted to just be close to “Dad.”
Tell me what this picture says to you….

Buying a Home With Bad Credit and No Money Down

From bird-dogging to seller financing, Carter Brown kicked off the Credit and Debt Summit with six strategies for buying a home with bad credit and no money down. Even if you have a bad credit score and no down payment, Brown explains the six strategies for buying home, or investing in real estate.
Buying a Home with Bad Credit and No Money Down
Carter Brown is a real estate coach for Prosper Learning who started investing in real estate while he was in college. He now coaches other people on out-of-the-box strategies for buying homes or investing in the real estate market. These strategies don’t require any money down, and they can be used by people with bad credit scores.
As part of the Credit and Debt Summit, Brown shared these strategies with registrants:

  1. Assigning contracts
  2. Double-escrow closing
  3. Subject to financing
  4. Seller financing
  5. Lease options
  6. Bird-dogging

Two of the highlights are “subject to financing” and “bird-dogging. “
Buying a Home with Bad Credit and No Money Down Strategy: Subject to Financing

Subject to financing is a perfect strategy for buyers with bad credit and no money down and sellers who are on the brink of foreclosure. It works like this:
The buyer takes over mortgage payments on a person’s house. In exchange, the seller transfers the title to the buyer, but—and here’s the kicker—the seller keeps the loan in his or her name. The buyer, however, starts making payments on the home.
Does this sound crazy? Why in the world would a seller transfer title but keep the loan in his or her name?
It isn’t crazy, and Brown explains why it works;
1. The homeowner (seller) is going to lose the home to foreclosure otherwise. Under “subject to financing,” the seller doesn’t have to go through foreclosure and preserves his or her credit score. Perhaps more importantly, the seller’s financial stresses are over. No longer do they have to worry about coming up with thousands of dollars, negotiating with banks, attempting—and failing—to get loan modifications. The buyer can take over payments immediately, leaving the seller with peace of mind.
2. The buyer and seller can always write a clause into the contract that forces the home to return to the original owner in the event that the buyer misses a payment. And because the loan is still in the original owner’s name, the seller can track the buyer’s payments.
3. Worst-case scenario, the buyer misses a payment and the home returns to the original owner. If this happens, the original owner can start making payments if his or her financial situation has improved. If the original owner’s financial situation has not improved, he or she is no worse for the wear.
Obviously, this strategy is a bit sophisticated. Want the transcripts of Brown’s Credit and Debt Summit webinar? Register for the free summit here and get more details, including information on where you can find qualified sellers.
Buying a Home with Bad Credit and No Money Down Strategy: Bird-Dogging

If “subject to financing” makes you nervous, but you still want to get your foot in the door and start learning advanced techniques for real estate investing, Brown suggests starting with a technique he calls “bird dogging.”
Under this strategy, you don’t actually buy a home, but it allows you to shadow someone who is using outside-the-box strategies, which means you can quickly move up the ladder and start learning about buying a home with bad credit and no money down.
Simple put, bird-dogging is another way of saying that you act as a scout, and you get paid for bringing a seller and an investor together. You also get to shadow the investor so that you learn more about real estate investments.
Let’s say that you are chatting with your neighbor, and you learn that she and her husband are in financial distress. Their house has been on the market for months, but no one is biting. If something doesn’t happen—and soon—the bank is going to foreclosure.
This is where you come in. Simply introduce your neighbor to a real estate investor. Tell the investor that you want to provide a referral for a finder’s fee. If the investor purchases the property, you will receive a fee of about $500.
This isn’t where it ends. Ask the investor if you can shadow the transaction. Let the investor know that you are interested in learning more about real estate strategies. The investor, thrilled that a hot deal has dropped onto his or her lap, will agree.
Brown goes on to describe four other strategies for buying a home with bad credit and no money down.  His strategies offer something for everyone—from the seasoned investor to the newbie hoping to get his or her feet wet.

If At First You Don’t Succeed, Commit Fraud and Fail Again: Defrauding From Behind Bars

Three defendants have been sentenced to federal prison on charges of bank fraud and aggravated identity theft; one man committing fraud from prison.
According to United States Attorney Sally Quillian Yates, the charges and other information presented in court: In late January 2011, Samantha Johnson stole the wallet of a 93-year-old woman while she was shopping at a retail establishment in Conyers, Georgia. There Johnson found the victim’s debit card for checking accounts at Georgia United Credit Union along with the personal identification number (PIN) for her debit card and account numbers and personal information that she would need to obtain information over the telephone about her accounts from the credit union.
Johnson shared the victim’s debit card number, PIN, account numbers and personal information with Danyez Hines and Carlos Garcia. At the time Garcia was incarcerated at Valdosta State Prison, having been convicted of identity theft and fraud in which he targeted elderly victims.
Sounds like a real “go-to” person, eh? Nothing like looking for help in committing a crime than with a person who had previously failed at getting away with this crime before. Criminals are so smart ::rolls eyes::.
Unfortunately, incarceration did not stand in the way of Garcia participating in additional crimes. Johnson and Hines were able to communicate with Garcia through a cell phone that had been smuggled to him in the prison.
Which makes me wonder, how in the world would one keep a cell phone charged in jail?!
Using the victim’s account numbers, debit card, PIN, and personal information, the defendants attempted through various means to obtain the more than $120,000 in funds that were in the victim’s accounts at the Georgia United Credit Union. Garcia, using the cell phone smuggled to him in the prison, used the debit card number and PIN to wire transfer money from the victim’s account to his prisoner account at Valdosta State Prison.
Hines and Johnson ordered new checks for the account and directed that they be sent to Hines’ grandmother’s address. Once the checks arrived, Hines forged the victim’s signature on checks and cashed them or gave them to others to cash for him. Using the personal information obtained from the victim’s wallet, the defendants called the credit union, posed as the victim and transferred funds between accounts.
When the victim and her family discovered the fraud, they reported it to the credit union. The credit union froze the victim’s accounts and deactivated the victim’s debit card before a substantial loss occurred.
I’m sure the wiring to a personal PRISON account and the mailing of checks to a personal address didn’t give the police too much of a chase in this case.
Garcia, the already once failed criminal, fails yet again and was sentenced to 6 years, 9 months in prison to be followed by 5 years of supervised release and ordered to pay restitution of $3,104.09.
Hines was sentenced to 2 years, 10 months in prison to be followed by 5 years of supervised release and $1,719.75 in restitution.
Johnson was sentenced to 5 years, 10 months in prison followed by 5 years supervised release and $3,104.09 due in restitution.

“Identity theft has the potential to decimate its victims bank accounts and credit history. These defendants targeted a 93-year-old woman and attempted to defraud her of her life savings. Thankfully, the victim and her family discovered the crime before the defendants were able to empty her bank accounts,” said United States Attorney Sally Quillian Yates. “They exhibited a remarkable callousness toward the impact that their criminal conduct would have on their elderly victim” – Source.

Folks, DO NOT KEEP YOUR PIN NUMBERS AND PERSONAL INFORMATION IN YOUR WALLET. That’s right, I went all CAPS on y’all.
Author: This article was contributed by GetOutOfDebt.org, a site that provides free help for people looking for debt consolidation and advice on getting out of debt.
Source: If At First You Don’t Succeed, Commit Fraud and Fail Again : Defrauding From Behind Bars

How to Fight a Collection Report

This letter asking for information about how to fight a collection account just came into my inbox:
“I am currently fighting a collection agency who suspiciously has me owing over $1,000 to a hospital that I have never heard about, and that is no longer in existence. The collection agency’s report states that I had a dog bite and visited the emergency room.”
My student went on to say that the collection company could not link his Social Security number or current address to the bill, and so the collection agency asked my student to send a letter to dispute the matter.
You know, to clear things up …
So my student sent a letter letting the collection agency know his SSN, his address, and his current employer. Guess what collection company did? It took the information from the letter and entered it into the database, linking my student’s Social Security number, address, and current employer to the bill.
That’s right: My student was trying to correct an error, and the collection agency used this information to make the error even worse! Boy does this have me steamed!
If a creditor or collection agency ever mistreats you, fight back! The Fair Credit Reporting Act is a set of laws that protects consumers from creditors and credit bureaus that is incorrectly reporting information.Under this act, you have the right to dispute any item on your credit report that you believe is wrong. And credit agencies must respond to your dispute.
Here are the steps you can follow to fight a collection report.
1) Upon identifying an error, send a “dispute letter” detailing the items listed incorrectly in your credit report. Since my student is dealing with a dishonest collection company, I suggest that he approach the credit bureaus directly.
The first letter should state, very simply, “I am writing to request that you remove information from my credit report. The information does not belong to me.
“Following are the details: [Insert the details of the mistaken account, and include a copy of your credit report with the incorrect account highlighted].
“Please investigate this claim and remove the inaccurate information from my credit report.”
2) Upon receiving the dispute letter, the bureau will contact the creditor and ask it to verify that the item in question is correct.
3) Expect a written response from the bureau within 30 days. The response will either provide the results of the investigation, or it will request more information from you, in which case it will have another 15 days to complete the investigation.
4) If you do not hear back within 30 days, fill out this form, which will help you fight back and protect your rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act.
5) If the agency determines that the dispute is valid, or if it cannot verify the disputed item’s accuracy, it is required by law to remove (permanently or temporarily) the item you are disputing. Unless the agency receive information validating the account’s accuracy, the information should not reappear on your credit report.
6) Be sure to keep great records. Send letters via certified mail, return receipt requested. And pull your credit report a few months after the dispute has been resolved to make sure that the inaccurate information doesn’t make its way back onto your credit report.
Hope this helps. If you have more questions about how to fight a collection account, be sure to leave a comment below.

Bad Money Decisions, by 720 Credit Score

If you ever took a traditional economics course, you learned that human beings make rational decisions about their finances, and choose things that are in their best interests.
But you only have to look around you to find evidence that human beings are far from rational, particularly when it comes to finances.
We all consistently make irrational and stupid choices that cost us more, both in the short and the long run, because we are not always capable of deciding what is in our best interests.
This understanding of how real people make real financial decisions comes from the (relatively) new field of Behavioral Economics. This discipline looks at the intersection of psychology and economic theory, and it paints the human animal as a far more irrational creature than Adam Smith ever imagined.
Check out these five ways that humans make poor money decisions, and see if you can recognize any of your past blunders:

1. Seeing a High Price Can Make us Pay More

We like to think that we know a fair price when we see one, but the truth is that we’re remarkably suggestible. For instance, take a look for the most expensive wine on the menu the next time you are out to a nice dinner. Often, you will see a single bottle listed at $100 or even more, while the rest of the wines are listed at about $25-$50 per bottle. That one expensive bottle is listed on the menu to make the $50 bottles seem much cheaper in comparison.

Many restaurants literally only keep one bottle of the expensive stuff, because they don’t intend for anyone to actually buy it. It’s there to sell the $50 wine, which would have otherwise seemed far too expensive compared the other options.

What’s happening here is something Behavioral Economists describe as anchoring. Once we have a number in our heads, it anchors our expectations for price. Dan Ariely, in his book Predictably Irrational tells how Williams-Sonoma was frustrated at poor sales of its bread machine, priced at $275. The solution they came up with was to offer another model – one that was larger and priced at $400.
Suddenly, sales of the cheaper model rose, while no one bothered with the spendy version. This was because shoppers suddenly had something to compare the original to, and $275 no longer seemed like too much to spend- at least not compared to $400.

2. We Hate to Lose, Even When we Already Have

If you’ve ever held onto a tanking stock because it’s sure to regain its value, then you have been a victim of loss aversion. Loss aversion is psychological quirk that makes us work much harder to avoid a loss than we will to achieve a gain. In terms of the stock market, once a stock starts doing poorly, we think of the money we have already lost, and we fear further losses. But instead of cutting our losses, and accepting the fact that the money we’ve already spent is a sunk cost, we hold onto those stocks in the hope that they’ll pick back up again.
You can see loss aversion in nearly every aspect of life. This is the reason why we keep those bread machines we spent nearly $300 on, even though we never make bread in them – and we could certainly get something for them at a garage sale. The simple fact that we will never see that $300 again is enough reason to let the machine gather dust, because we’ll kick ourselves for “only” getting 10 bucks on a resale.

Loss aversion is also why we are so unwilling to cancel memberships to gyms we don’t attend, clubs we don’t go to, and cable packages we don’t use. We think about how much it will cost to rejoin if we were to quit- forgetting that every month we’re allowing more money to go down the drain for fear of “losing” the original enrollment fee.

It’s very difficult for us to remember that that money is already gone.

3. We Overvalue Free Things

bad money decisionsHow many times have you ordered a book that you’re not entirely certain you want, just to make sure you qualify for free shipping from Amazon?
When you do that (and we all do), you end up paying more money overall and end up with an unwanted item, to boot.
This is clearly irrational.
For some reason, the word “free” seems to scramble our brains. When we are offered a free item or service, we forget what other costs there might be to that item or service because we are so focused on the fact that we’re not paying money. What’s really interesting is that we are willing to pay more in order to get something free. That’s why Amazon offers free shipping for orders over $25, and why many marketers and retailers give out free gifts with purchase.

4. Future Needs Vs. Today’s Wants

We think things in the future are less important than things happening now. Human beings have a very hard time planning for the future. Apparently, 75% of Americans nearing retirement in 2010 had less than $30,000 saved, which is a pretty horrifying statistic. But before we write off three-quarters of the retiring population as irresponsible laggards, we should look at our own behavior.

  • How many times have you bought something with a credit card without a specific plan to pay it off?
  • How often have you promised yourself you’d diet only to be tempted off the path the moment you see a box of donuts?
  • How many times have you left work for yourself to do in the morning, only to curse yourself the next day?

What’s going here is something called hyperbolic discounting. That’s a 50¢ word for our unconscious feeling that now matters more than later. We know that we ought to put money aside for retirement, but man is that far away! And the money is here now. So, we tend to think that retirement will take care of itself, while the money can be put to “good use” now.

5. We Overestimate the Possibility of Unlikely Things Occurring.

Our brains are wired to think that things we can easily come up with an example of are likely to happen. This is something called the availability heuristic. What that means is that we think we’re much more likely to win the lottery or win big in Vegas than is statistically possible just because we can think of examples of people who have won.
Since we can think of those examples, we think the outcome is more likely. And every time you read a news story or see a movie about such winners, your brain believes that you winning is even more probable.
Even if you are able to sidestep the availability heuristic, you may still fall victim to the similar gambler’s fallacy. This is when you believe that something is “due” to happen because it hasn’t for quite some time. For example, you might bet on a coin coming up heads on the 21st toss after it has come up tails every time for 20 tosses. It seems as though the coin is “due” to come up heads, but it’s still only 50/50 odds.
Otherwise rational investors may find themselves following the gambler’s fallacy by avoiding buying stocks that are going gangbusters, for fear that there has to be a fall eventually. Statistics may show a general regression toward the mean (i.e. – everything evens out eventually), but general statistics are meaningless when talking about individual events.

Irrational Money Decisions Affecting Your Life

Approaching all of our financial decisions rationally is remarkably difficult to do. It pays to think about the money choices we make, and try to figure out what our motivation is each time. A little mindfulness and self-knowledge can do wonders for combating irrational decisions.
Source: Good Financial Cents